Cuba in the Queen City

Posted by Dr. Tom Hanchett, staff historian on November 25 2009

When my friend Sammy Gatewood at Sharon Towers asked recently where to get a Cuban sandwich in Charlotte, it sparked the realization that we are suddenly rich in Cuban eateries.

Cuban immigrants have been a presence in the Queen City since the 1960s when families fleeing Castro became Charlotte's first small Latino community. But it's been hard to find a Cuban sandwich here, or much other Cuban food for that matter.

What's a Cuban sandwich? Thin-sliced roasted pork, plus thin-sliced ham, plus swiss cheese, plus mustard and a pickle slice are layered onto special light, feathery bread. Then the whole thing is pressed in a special gizmo that flattens it and heats the cheese almost to melting. It seems to have originated as a workingman's meal, maybe in the cigar factories. But now it is a favorite quick lunch or snack enjoyed by everybody.

In Charlotte, for many years the only place to get Cuban food was a spot out Albemarle Road. It's gone though a couple of locations and several names, but it's still one of our family's regular haunts, and alongside the fancier dinners you'll find Cuban sandwiches on the menu.

Conga's Cuban Cafe
5534 Albemarle Rd, Charlotte
(704) 535-0223
http://www.congascubancafe.com

Long-time Charlotteans will recall when Conga's was called Taste of Havana. The woman who ran that incarnation just opened Havana Cuban Cuisine in uptown Charlotte. I visited last week and enjoyed a sandwich in the languid, high-ceiling space that encourages diners to linger over coffee in the true Cuban manner.

Havana Cuban Cuisine
129 W Trade St, Charlotte
(704) 376-2122

Way out suburban South Tryon Street perhaps a mile past I485 is A Piece of Havana, big and bustling with Cuban families enjoying food and fellowship. On weekend evenings there are often Sinatra-smooth vocalists singing along to recorded music tracks.

A Piece of Havana
11126 S Tryon St, Charlotte
(704) 588-7883
www.apieceofhavana.com

My favorite place of all is Las Palmas, which a couple of months ago took over a Colombian spot in an anonymous South Boulevard strip mall. It's small and happily crowded with families and groups of young people. Alongside a variety of entrees is not only a regular Cuban sandwich, but also the intriguingly named "Midnite Sandwich." Quick research on Google indicates that it's a smaller, lighter version of the traditional sandwich and is often served as a late-night snack in Cuba and in Cuban parts of Florida. I've gotta try one next time I'm there...

Las Palmas
5033 South Blvd, Charlotte
(704) 527-5553

P.S. A fifth Cuban eatery is about to open. Go to www.CubanPetesCafe.com and you'll get updates on this new location in Plaza Midwood. I've peeked through the windows and can report that a fabulous mural painter is hard at work creating exuberant island atmosphere.